Wallrock Fibreliner

Wallrock Fibreliner

What is Wallrock Fibreliner?

It’s been on the market for a few years, but only recently started to become very popular with professional decorators and especially DIYers. Before we talk about Wallrock Fibreliner, let’s look at the good, old lining paper.

Lining paper is made of wood pulp – no surprises here. The fibres in wood pulp are relatively short, which means you can tear paper quite easily. This isn’t a big deal when you use paper for printing documents, photocopying etc; however, when it comes to putting it on the wall, it’s another matter as different things come to play. You won’t see it, but your walls and your house are constantly moving hence the cracks. So, when the movement becomes too much for the paper to take it will tear on your wall. Simple.

What’s the solution then?

Take the short wood pulp fibres and combine it with the long and durable textile fibres. Long fibres will ensure that the resulting material is stable, strong and it holds together well. Below you can see ‘naked’ Wallrock i.e. textile fibres – the image has been magnified. You can see long fibres going in all directions, which gives the final product ultimate tensile strength and flexibility. Now, dress it with  wood pulp and you have a wallcovering, which is:

  • very strong – it can take so much more of the wall movement
  • easy to hang (just paste the wall and put it up). It doesn’t shrink or expand when wet, which is the case with lining paper
  • you can paint it or wallpaper over it
  • it’s dry strippable and allows walls to breathe
Wallrock Fibreliner

Fibres in Wallrock Fibreliner

Wallrock Fibreliner texture

Let’s compare the finish / textures of traditional lining paper 1200 and Wallrock Fibreliner – see the image below. The two finishes aren’t exactly the same, but they aren’t far off – these aren’t painted. Are you wondering why the lining paper is off-white? This is the professional range of lining papers which uses virgin wood pulp (from renewable forests though) and isn’t treated in any way. You might notice that lining papers made from recycled materials are whiter. The reason is that bleach is used during the production process to get all the ink etc out of the paper. Not all that nature friendly process then.

Lining paper and Wallrock Fibreliner – compare textures

When and why would you use Wallrock Fibreliner?

Quite a few reasons, but let’s look at the main ones:

  • Walls (and ceilings) that crack often and need to be reinforced. No lining paper will match the strength and durability of Wallrock Fibreliner.
  • If you are a DIYer, you don’t want to be buying paste tables just to do one room. With Wallrock Fibreliner you paste the wall and hang the wallcovering directly onto it. For those who don’t know, when hanging lining paper (or traditional wallpaper) you need to apply the adhesive to the lining paper first, fold it and wait for about 10 minutes before hanging it on the wall. At this point lining paper has expanded (it’s wet and that’s what paper does when wet) and will try to shrink on the wall when it’s drying
  • If you are a professional decorator, you can complete the job much faster.

How many Wallrock Fibreliners are there?

There’s only one Wallrock Fibreliner, but it comes in different roll lengths and widths – it’s part of the Wallrock range of products though and the name Wallrock refers to the production method that they are all based on. You can compare it to lining paper 1200 grade in terms of the thickness.


  1. Michael

    hi. I read on coveryourwall website that you need to use a special adhesive for wallrock fibreliner. why is that?


    • OnWall

      Hi Mike. To demonstrate it best, I’ll start with how adhesive and lining paper work (I’m sure white-coat-lab-chaps would have more technical views on it). When you apply the adhesive to lining paper it ‘sinks’ into the paper (that’s why the paper expands) and bonds with the entire thickness of the lining paper. Wallrock Fibreliner doesn’t really absorb the adhesive so you have to ensure that the adhesive is strong enough to hold it to the wall. It’s a bit like trying to stick a brick to a wall using paper glue. Hope this makes sense.

  2. It really is rare to find competent persons on this matter, nevertheless, you be understood as you are aware of what you are writing about! Appreciate it

  3. Hi, A sales rep in Brewers said that I could use Solvite to hang Wallrock Fibreliner. Having read your comment I’m not sure now. Which is correct?

    I’ve hung the Wallrock Thermal Liner and was considering just painting directly onto this surface. Do you know of any issues with this approach or should I hang the fibreliner first?


    • OnWall

      You should have asked him if he tried? 🙂 Wallrock Fibreliner and all other paste the wall type of wallcoverings require much stronger adhesive than your standard Solvite (I presume he was referring to a standard one). BTW – I’ve heard from quite a few decorators that the normal Solvite seems to be going up and down in terms of quality. That’s what I’ve heard and got nothing against Solvite and used it plenty of times myself. Back to your point. I would strongly suggest that you use Wallrock Power Adhesive (or another ready mix adhesive e.g. heavy duty wallpaper adhesive). Remember that you don’t leave the adhesive soaking into the liner hence the reason why it needs to be much stronger. I think the sales rep was thinking about typical application as with normal lining paper. Having said all of this, if you’d use normal Solivite, most likely it’d stick to the wall, but give the room higher temperature and / or different levels of humidity and you could have Wallrock Fibreliner on the floor.

      Wallrock Thermal Liner has been designed so that it can be painted directly. There are absolutely no problems with this approach. The only reason why we’d suggest that you use Wallrock Fibreliner (or Premium) is if the wall underneath the Thermal Liner is a bit uneven. This often would mean that you get different levels between different drops and this shows at the seams (as you know, the thermal liner is 3.2 mm thick) – see what I mean at the bottom of this page. In this case Wallrock Fibreliner would cover it nicely.

      I hope this helps, but let us know if you have more questions.


  4. I hung fibreliner on wallrock insulated lining paper on my walls with a 25mm overlap on the corners. Having painted the fibreliner I can clearly see a distinct line where the overlaps occur. Am I doing something wrong?

    • OnWall

      Hi David,
      1st question. Do you mean you used Wallrock Thermal Liner or was it Insulating Lining Paper (polystyrene with lining paper over it)? Before you hung Wallrock Fibreliner over the thermal insulation liner (whichever it was) did you see any gaps between the seams? How long did you leave the thermal insulation liner before you hang Wallrock Fibreliner (this could be quite important)? Is it happening at every joint? You could try to lift Wallrock Fibreliner at the bottom of the wall to see what’s happening underneath. If you have any images and could post them here it’d very helpful. Once you provide a bit more info, we’ll try to help.


    • Hi

      In answer to your questions: –

      1.It was Insulating Lining Paper.

      2.There were no gaps between the seams.

      3.It was at least a month before I applied the fibreliner to the insulating Lining Paper

      4.I can only see a line where I have overlapped the fibreliner around corners.

    • OnWall


      Sorry, not sure if I understand it correctly. You can see a line through the fibreliner where the two drops of the insulating lining paper meet? If so, there must be a gap there, but it’s strange that it’s taken so long to develop. It could be a gap between the actual polystyrene drops or just a gap between lining paper on the two drops. Without actually seeing it, it’s very difficult to comment.


    • Please disregard the insulating lining paper. All I am trying to say is that when I overlap fibreliner I can see where the overlap occurs because it creates a ridge that shows through the paint finish.

    • OnWall

      Now I understand. You shouldn’t overlap the Fibreliner at all. Butt-jointing is the correct way of working with Wallrock Fibreliner. Because it’s dimensionally stable (doesn’t expend when wet and shrink when drying up) it means you won’t get the gaps that are traditionally associated with lining paper or wallpaper.


  5. Can you go round internal and external corners with wallrock fibre lining ?
    Or is there a better method ?

    • Hi Neil,

      Wallrock Fibreliner can go round corners without any problems – just like normal lining paper would do. You only need to butt-join when using Wallrock Thermal Liners.



  6. I am looking to use fibre liner to cover my wood panel ceiling. I have spent some time trying to fill the gaps but I then got a small sample of fibre liner and when I pasted it up it seemed that the gaps did not show. I just want to check before I do the whole ceiling that i can just paste it all right up without filling the gaps. Also if i wanted to smooth over any bits where the height slightly changes could i just use the polycell smoothover to remove graduations? Would it stick ok. Many thanks.

    • Thank you for the enquiry and apologies for the delay in replying.

      Which Fibreliner did you use, please? In these cases I would typically suggest using the thicker version called Wallrock R300, which is 1.2 mm thick – not sure what the coverage is though as the roll covers 25 m sq. Obviously, if you have another one and you think it does the job there’s no need to consider anything else.

      Yes, you can use normal polycell filler with Wallrock Fibreliners. It does work quite well

      If you have further questions, please do let us know.


  7. Sue barr

    Thinking of using wall rock fibre liner instead of replastering after receiving a sample. We have a 1960s house, living room walls not to bad would the product be suitable to cover small bumps in the plaster?

    • OnWall

      Hi Sue,
      I think if you are talking about small bumps to cover you’d need to look at Wallrock R300, which is 1.2 mm thick. Wallrock Fibreliner is of similar thickness to 1200 grade lining paper and won’t hide bumps. If you’d like us a few samples of the products, please drop us a note with your address.



  8. Caroline

    Can I put up “normal” wallpaper, not the paste the wall type, over the top?

    • OnWall

      Hi Caroline,

      Yes, but you need to apply Wallrock Fibreliner first on top of the thermal liner.


  9. Any update on the queries forwarded a few weeks ago on using Wallrock Fibreliner. I am re papering, have stripped the old wallpaper off, this has left a thin residue of the old wallpaper paste (Solvite) on the walls.
    i. Do I have to remove the residue of old paste from the walls before applying Wallrock Power adhesive; if I apply the Power adhesive over the thin layer of old paste remaining on the walls will it react well or will this have an adverse affect on the adhesiveness of the Wallrock Power adhesive?
    ii. Do I have to size the Wallrock Fibreliner before hanging the new wallpaper over it. I intend to use Solvite paste to hang the new wallpaper.
    I would be grateful for an early reply on the queries.
    ED C

    • Hi Ed,

      Thank you for your post. A reply to your question was sent via email on the 4th of June at 8:58. Please check your spam folder. To answer your questions:

      No, there’s no need to remove the residue of the Solvite paste as long as it doesn’t create ‘bumps’ or ‘ridges’ on the wall or any other imperfections. There’s no need to size Wallrock Fibreliner either, but I’d suggest that you use slightly more paste for your wallpaper.

      I hope this helps.


  10. Richard Neville


    • Hi Richard,

      Cutting the thermal liner and butt-joining it is the only option in this case otherwise you’d end up with round corners. Because you are going to use Wallrock Fibreliner on top of the thermal liner you’ll be able to mask any imperfections that might result from cutting and joining. To be on the safe side, use a bit of filler (e.g. Polyfilla) if to smooth out the joints.


    • Grayham Curtis-Thomas

      we have just finished papering a very small bathroom and the wallrock thermal liner did bend and go around the revel, the paper was wide enough to go right to the window frame, there was no problem. However on the other side of the window there was only about 2-3 cm of paper to go round the corner and this didn’t stick down properly. We carefully scored the paper side of the thermal liner and it did go round the revel. When dry we filled the score line. hope this helps.
      Regards Grayham

    • OnWall

      Great idea! Glad it worked well.


  11. Margaret

    Can I face fill fibre lining paper

    • OnWall

      Hi Margaret,

      Could you please explain what you mean by ‘face fill’?



  12. aliceson

    i used thermal liner and painted it, there were gaps where the paper butted up together so i filled and painted, now the filler has cracked. on the instructions it says to use a flexable filler, but i will need to sand it, but i cant find a flexable sandable filler, do you?

  13. I’ve just used wallrock thermal liner in a downstairs bathroom/toilet. I was planning in caulking any corners to smooth the joints/seams or is something like polyfilla better?
    Also am I ok to paint directly onto it using a specific bathroom emulsion paint?

    • OnWall

      Hi Sam,

      Either is going to work fine, so the question is which one you have available or which one you prefer to use. Emulsion paint / bathroom emulsion paint will work well on the thermal liner.


  14. John Decoir

    Hello. I am using Wallrock Premium with the proprietary paste and I’ve found it very easy to apply except that I can’t work out how to tackle outside/external corners. I’ve tried various different methods but any case of rounding the corner with the paper leaves a strip of bubble up one or both sides of the corner that just can’t be worked out. Essentially, the paper won’t hold down around external corners, even with creasing (which quickly crumples the paper on non-plumb corners).

    This is the case even if a very large “overlap” is used, e.g. having the corner set in the middle of a 75cm sheet, with 35+cm on either side – the same problem occurs. Horizontal or vertical sheets, neither works well. I have experimented with a trimmed butt joint directly on top of the corner, but this is not neat and will surely catch and pull off once someone brushes against it.

    Can you please shed any light on how to get decent external corners with fibreliner? I have dozens of them to deal with!

    Thanks very much,

    • OnWall

      Hi John,

      This is a typical problem with liners that are thicker and Wallrock Premium has extra fibres in its structure, which I suppose gives the material marginally more ‘spring’. Two things you could do:

      1. When you paste one side of the corner and apply the liner over it, wait until the adhesive dried and gripped it – you might need to wait for 12 hours though – before you apply the adhesive to the other side of the corner and bend the Premium. This could potentially work, but I’ve not tested it myself. However, if the corner is not plumb / flush straight you’ll still end up the end of the liner not being straight on the other side of the corner and requiring you to overlap and cut through.

      2. Another way is to to butt-joint on the corner, which you tried, but if you use a good filler (suggest Toupret ELAFIB or FIBACRYL – EXTERIOR Flexible Filler) to finish it off / close the corner you can actually get it to a very neat finish. When you are cutting Wallrock on the corner, just run your knife along the edge of the wall / the wall that form the second part of the corner, which will allow you to cut the liner exactly to the shape of the edge. This is especially true when the edge / corner isn’t flush straight. I hope this helps, but if you get stuck, please let us know.


  15. Hilary denham

    Hi, I have put some thin 2mm polystyrene veneer onto a cold external wall. The product suggests using wall rock fibre liner. Do I paste the polystyrene veneer then apply the fibre liner, or paste the fibre liner then stick,over the polystyrene ?

    Thanks, Hilary

    • OnWall

      Hi Hilary,

      You can do either, but you might find it easier if you paste the polystyrene. Wallrock Fibreliner is essentially a paste-the-wall type of liner, but works either way.


  16. Desmond

    I am proposing to use Fibreliner to cover embossed wall paper which has been painted with vinyl silk emulsion. The Fibreliner would then be painted with a soft sheen vinyl.
    The reason not to strip the wallpaper is because (1) the walls are plasterboard and (2) the wallpaper is sound and in good condition.
    Will this give a smooth wall look or will the embossed pattern show through?

    • OnWall

      Hi Desmond,

      I’m not sure if the standard Wallrock Fibreliner will cover the texture of the embossed wallpaper unless it’s very fine. What might be required is to use Wallrock R300 (Cosy Liner if a smaller roll is required) to do this. Happy to post you a couple of samples so that you can examine it properly.


  17. Desmond

    Thank you for your prompt response. I have requested a couple of samples.

  18. I am thinking of using wallrock fibre liner on a shower room ceiling and painting with eggshell. Will a constant use of the steam from the shower tend to lift the fibreliner.

    • OnWall

      Hi Ian,

      I’m slightly hesitant to say yes without knowing how efficient the ventilation is as the steam will hang under the ceiling for longest and it’ll be the hottest place as well. If the ventilation is quite robust, it could work, but I’d suggest that you size the ceiling using diluted Wallrock Power adhesive.


  19. Thanks for your response .there is a vent in ceiling directly next to the shower. In the case that I size the ceiling and a problem did occur ,would the fibreliner be difficult to strip from the ceiling.

    • OnWall

      In theory, Wallrock Fibreliner is dry-strippable so it should be easier than removing traditional lining paper, but in practice I think it’s similar. One way or another, it shouldn’t be too difficult, but you might need to use a steamer.


  20. Can I hang wallrock over vinyl wallpaper.

    • OnWall

      Hi Tim,

      I’d suggest that you strip the wallpaper off as the vinyl texture can be come off at some point in the future and most likely it’d show through Wallrock Fibreliner. We can always send you samples if needed.


  21. david heeks

    I am a professional decorator with over forty years experience. I have been impressed with many aspects of Wallrocks performance except for one, which is when applying emulsion to the dried out surface the finish appears patchy. This improves slightly after three coats of emulsion but is a little annoying as two coats with other wall coverings is usually sufficient. Many thanks. David Heeks.

    • OnWall

      Hi David,

      Thanks for your post. Wallrock Fibreliners are great to use and we have more and more customers who are switching to it from traditional lining papers. As for your comment, we’ve not heard this from our customers directly, so we had a chat with the manufacturer. They’ve only had a handful of these comments thus far and it seems that the issue surfaces up mainly during summer so they suspect the paint is perhaps thickening up and rollers and brushes drying out slightly which in turn allows the roller to lift fibres a little in patches where the roller is being pressed a little harder to make the paint cover. Once patches are like this, adding more paint does not always help whereas a very light sanding will remove the offending fibres. Wallrock Fibreliner Plus or Premium don’t exhibit these rare issues.



  22. Francis

    I’m looking to use the giver liner to cover two of my walls in the bathroom before painting, as plastering will be an inconveniance. Will it be durable in the bathroom or would it tend to peel? Note the walls around the shower/bath are tiled and it would be the walls at the opposite side of the room.


    • OnWall

      Hi Francis,

      What sort of ventilation do you have in the bathroom?


  23. struggling to do external corners? any recommendation pls.

    • OnWall


      Could you please explain a bit more about the issue? Not sure how to comment / help.


  24. I used warlock fibreliner in my room. It looks great and solid.

    However, I have noticed at least two areas, where it seems plaster behind the paper is cracked and as a result paper has raised from the that cracked line area. It is very tiny/small line.

    Though paper is not cracked but I can see raised paper line.

    Is there any way I can push back the paper to wall?

    • OnWall

      Hi Mane,

      What’s started happening is that Wallrock Fibreliner has lost contact (due to cracking) with the surface underneath hence the slight lift as you described. Is this a new or reappearing crack? The only way to stick it back would be to get underneath Wallrock Fibreliner (depending on how far it’s from the seam you could try to lift it of cut through although the latter may not look good after you’ve finished the job) and apply more adhesive. Before you do so, you’d need to fill in the cracks though. Please consider our Toupret Fibacryl filler over the standard fillers. What I’d suggest you do is to leave it for as long as you can bear it to see if the crack develops further before you make any decisions.


    • I think it is better to wait and see.

      Re: Toupret Fibacryl filler, this is amazing stuff. We had a crack in ceiling, we filled it with different fillers but it was keep coming back. I filled it with Toupret filler weeks ago and it worked..

      One question I would have Fibacryl is difficult to apply as it is not possible to sand down. Any recommended way to apply this filler?

    • OnWall

      It’s a bit more difficult to accomplish, but try to part fill it, wait for it to set and then fill just the very top layer with a normal filler which would allow you to sand it down.


  25. Chris Cook

    Hi, I have applied thermal fibre liner KV600 to my hallway wall is there any need to size the liner before applying the fibre liner smooth ?

    • OnWall

      Hi Chris,

      No, not at all. You can apply the Power Adhesive onto the thermal liner and hang Wallrock Fibreliner Smooth without any prep done to the thermal liner.


    • Christopher Cook

      Thank you for your help

  26. Shahzad Hussain

    I am looking at using wallrock thermal liner the 3. 2mm one.

    Can I paste wallpaper on this directly?
    If not what would need to go on top before I could put my desired paper on top?

    I am trying to insulate 1900 property.


    • OnWall

      Hi Shax,

      If it’s a paste-the-wall type of wallpaper you can hang it directly over the thermal liner. If it’s a traditional wallpaper (made 100% out of paper) you’d need to hang Wallrock Fibreliner on top of the thermal liner first and then your wallpaper over that. This will not only stop any potential issues with Wallrock Thermal Liner lifting at the seams or corners, but will allow you to take the wallpaper off in the future without damaging the thermal liner.


  27. brian kilroy

    I can not get wallpaper to stick to liner edges just keep coming away even after redoing with overlap paste

    • OnWall


      Are you using Wallrock Power adhesive? If so, this looks like a very absorbent surface which should’ve been primed with PVA.


  28. Can you apply smooth fibreliner to a plaster wall that’s been painted with emulsion?

    • OnWall

      Hi Adam,

      Absolutely. If it was new plaster you’d need to PVA it first otherwise the absorption level would be too high.


    • So am I right in thinking as long as the paint is sound(not flaking) then it’s ok to use the power adhesive.

      It won’t need sizing, and won’t fail to stick because of the paint

    • OnWall

      Pretty much. Power Adhesive isn’t your average wallpaper paste.

    • thats great to hear, would the paint need keying?


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